What are some tips for wiring my power-locks? (Esp. for toolboxes)
Trunk Pre-wire Install Guide
*We strongly advise reading the P.O.P. LocksTM Wiring Schematics fully before beginning installation. *
- Line Loss Calculations:
- Line Loss- Line Loss is the formula used to calculate the number of relay circuits (PL910) that is necessary to efficiently run a quality power-locking system.
- Over-Fusing- Running too many actuators from an under-designed system shortens the actuator’s life. Over-fusing will result in possible shortness of life for the actuator. Correct fusing will prevent damage to the actuators and total system failure. Damage caused by over-fusing voids any warranties.
- Fusing requirements using the final calculation of total amps drawn should be done on a per-circuit basis and should be fused appropriately. Never exceed that number by more than 2 fused amps. (Ex: 28.75 calculated amps fused to the max. 30 amps are acceptable)
- Trunk wire should be a minimum of 14-gauge, Branch wires can be 18-gauge.
- Minimize the number of splices to maximize useable amperage.
Measure the total length of the trunk wire
Length of Trunk Wire 25 ft.
The Line Loss Factor x 0.25
Total Amp Loss 6.25
Multiply the Gross # of Actuators 5
The Amp Loss per Actuator x 4.5
Total Amps needed 22.50
Add Amp loss (from trunk line) + 6.25
Total Calculations per Amp 28.75 amp.
- Pre-wire Drilling:
- Use a step drill bit (if possible) to drill 2 holes. Be careful not to dent the outer-door skin.
- Locate the first hole adjacent to the actuator, on the input side within the cover.
- The second hole should be drilled next to the base of the limit device.
- If you’re surface-mounting the wire, you’ll need to notch the cover.
- Relays should be installed in a dry environment as they are not waterproof. Relays are only water-resistant if installed flange up and are recommended to be installed in the cab kick panel or under the hood of the vehicle.
- Before drilling and pulling wires, plan the placement, and make sure that there is no conflict with the fuel lines, brake lines, or gas tanks. If these are in the way of drilling, they could get damaged.
- Leave excess wire at the cab end of the body for make-up.
- Mount the trunk wire inside of the boxes directly above the doors with adhesive wire ties.
- The standard trunk wire has (2) 14-gauge wires.
- Start the branch and trunk connections at the rear of the body, installing grommets and strapping as you go towards the cab.
- Pre-measure and cut the branch wires (18 ga.) for each actuator, leaving extra at both ends. (The wire must be long enough to string along the limit device into the body. Strap and sleeve at the limit device to help protect the wires.
- Use a 1/16” rigid wire to pull the branch wire (hole to hole) through the hollow door cavity. (if applicable) Grommet holes to prevent accidental grounding.
- Key Accessibility:
- Key accessibility is particularly important should you ever experience a power failure or need to access your toolbox with a key.
- Before closing any door, make sure that you have lubricated any necessary moving parts before adjustments are made.
- Make sure that the unlock feature works properly by inserting the key and rotating the lock.
- Open and close the locks by using the basic lock/unlock rocker switch before bringing any other trigger device to the system. All locks should open in unison, if one doesn’t, reverse the wire connections at that actuator input and retest.
- Cover installation:
- Remove the nut from the stud (if applicable).
- Place the P.O.P. Lock cover over the mounted actuator and make sure that the cover conceals but doesn’t crush the wiring. With the cover in place, firmly tighten the nut to secure the cover.
- If the door shell thickness allows driving (4) #8 x ¾” screws. Use the mounting holes on the covers to secure the cover and actuator to the door.
- It may be necessary to notch the cover to clear the door latch works or protruding linkages.